Sof SoleShoe Goo, Black

Works well on my black vibram soles of my Vibram Fivefingers KSOs.The KSO style five fingers are really quite wonderful in many ways, they are made with Kangaroo leather for the right amount of elasticity. I do love the feeling of walking barefoot, but with just the right amount of protection that they offer.Part of that protection is the thin, firm and grippy vib soles, which wear though. I looked at my sole one day and I had just worn through my vibram to the leather. ...So I looked around and found this Shoe Goo.I smeared a pretty thick coat on, let it set for 3 days, and hey what a great mend! The black works well on the black vib. The soles grip, flexibility and protection characteristics are back to great.At first I was a bit worried, some thicker goo high spots seemed to wear off very quickly, but the parts down a the sole level have lasted two or three months now. Much better than I was expecting.This has been a great product that has extended the life of my beloved (but weird looking) shoes. Just what I was looking for.

I have used this product for over 15 years. One tip. After the application allow the product about two days to harden. If you walk on it too soon it squishes down and does not last at all. If you wait and it hardens it lasts a long time. I have always used the clear, and purchased it locally. This is my first time using the black. I put this stuff on new shoes and it greatly extends the life of the sole. Make sure you use some kind of solvent to clean the sole thoroughly before you apply it. If you do, it is really, really hard to remove it, thus it does not separate and come off. When it gets too thin I replace it and that is when I notice how hard it sticks to the sole.UPDATE. If the heel is worn, you can put the goo on thicker, you just might have to wait for several days for it to get hard. Do not wear the shoe if the goo is soft at all. It will get rock hard. If you walk on it when it is sill soft the goo will flatten out. I have also used it for the first time as a glue. I have a pair of hiking off trail shoes that the sole started to separate. I cleaned the surfaces then put the goo between the two layers and used C clamps to hold the sides together. I gooed the heels and in a few days will be ready to wear the shoes for another year or so.

Works great. Able to repair the rubber trim on my new hiking boots. Easier than I thought.

Very sticky! and it works flawlessly. It has a texture that is consistent with rubber glue from my elementary school days. My only grip with the product is that it can be a little difficulty to apply to just small parts of the soles of shoes that are coming off... If they could make a squeeze bottle or package that can accommodate small crevices that would be phenomenal!! The reason why this makes a difference is that for situations like the one mentioned above, the goo will seep out and cover parts of the shoe as well, which you will have to manually rip/cut off. Besides this issue, the product works.

Best adhesive I have ever seen. I use in my skate shoes to do skateboarding. I cover the point of the shoe which I use to do ollies/tricks just not to rip the chamois or the shoe. It works perfect generating a thin layer protecting my shoes to be ripped when I do ollies.

it works well to repair shoes, especially when used with https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00920P6XA/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1. when you squeeze the tube to get some out know that the shoe goo flattens out while it dries with no need to spread it - just make sure you have it in the general placement of greatest need. it is very black when it dries and probably does not match the color of the surface it is repairing, even shoe heels, so it is noticeable.TIPS,1 keep the area repaired level when it is drying because it dries slowly and tends to flow in the direction of any downward tilt of the working surface.2 if you are going to use a form to help contain the area of placement (and i highly recommend doing that, especially when repairing shoe heels) know that using a coating of vaseline on the part of the form in contact with the shoe goo helps it to release easily when the goo dries.3 use the pointed cap end to puncture the tube because the goo is thick and you need a large flow volume in most cases4 the exterior of the shoe goo will dry quickly but depending on how thick you applied it the interior dries much more slowly. recently I used it in a thick application and it took 3 days for the interior to dry completely5 inevitably there will be shoe goo where you don't want it. it can be sanded off but that is a slow process - your best bet is to trim off any unwanted shoe goo with a sharp knife or an exacto knife.CAUTIONthe goo easily mars surfaces if the shoe goo area is scuffed against something hard. the good news is that the mark easily rubs off.when trimming dried shoe goo with a knife be cautious of the knife blade orientation to your hands and body because you will need to exert considerable force to get it to cut through the dried goo and when the blade reaches the point of no longer being restrained by resistance of the goo to being cut it will suddenly move forward and possibly cut you, badly.