RadonSeal Plus Deep-Penetrating Concrete Sealer, Basement Waterproofing & Radon Mitigation (5-Gallon)

Easy to use, dries quickly

I bought three 5 gallon buckets (one at a time) of this to seal my basement. I had planned just to do one area of floor and the walls with my first bucket but liked it so much I ended doing all walls and floors in my basement. I also used one bucket of Ion Bond Armor for the room I really wanted sealed and used the extra on the most damp walls after using this sealer.I had to remove a lot of old sealer paint and other stuff on the 60 year old walls. I bought the Bosch Concrete Surface Grinder and ground off all the stuff down to bare concrete before spraying the sealer. After spraying it pushed a lot of the white stuff back out. I bought the cleaner and planned to use it to clean the walls after sealing, but it did not work at all in my case. I spent a lot of time on the phone with Radon Seal and they were very helpful. You have to understand that every basement project is slightly different and there are unique snags. It seems in my case I waited too long to use the cleaner (only two weeks) but I may have had calcium carbonate form. I ended up just using the grinder to clean the walls. I highly recommend the Bosch Concrete Grinder but cannot recommend the Radon Seal Cleaner.After sealing and putting Ion Bond the floors are really well sealed. However, I was under the impression that it would leave the surface able to be painted but in my case water beads up and stays for more than an hour. I have been afraid to try to paint like this, but I am happy with the sealed concrete and may not need to paint. I tried to call Radon Seal to discuss painting after sealing but we must have got wires crossed since they did not return my call, which is unusual given the long phone calls I had with them previously. I will try to cal them again when I have time.All said, I would definitely recommend this sealer and the Ion Bond Armor as well as the Bosch Concrete Surface Grinder. I would not recommend the cleaner. I bought the crack filler foam kit but have not used it yet.One other thing, these guys have a very good web site with tons of information. They said that their main customer service problem is people who buy the stuff but do not go to the Radon Seal web site to read all the information before they start the project. You need to make sure the concrete is bare and will absorb water. I had a couple spots that I did not grind enough and when I said the sealer not soaking in I got the grinder out and went over that spot again and it went fine.You need to realize that doing this is a big project. Granted I had some pretty messy old walls to start with, but the grinding and prep work took a huge amount of time. I have been on the project nearly three months, most of the time grinding. However, putting the sealer on will take about 50 minutes a coat (two or three) plus waiting two or three hours then hosing and scrubbing to make sure there is not excess left clogging the surface. In my case I did this in stages and there were eight or ten days devoted to spraying the sealer since I had to move stuff around to be able to clear an area for working on.11/27/2014 update.I painted two walls in my garage that were sealed with RadonSeal Plus and Ion Bond Armor. I used Behr Concrete and Masonry Paint (the one with no water proofing). I had been concerned about painting because the floor which was sealed the same way beads up water for many hours and I thought the paint might not sink in enough. The paint sent on well and after a month or two it seems to be holding up without any signs of lifting or pealing. I also have been able to patch some holes with epoxy enhanced patching concrete and it seems to attach well to the already sealed concrete walls and floors.The basement seems to be well sealed now. During the late summer I did not see a huge humidity drop and continued to run my dehumidifier. Without the dehumidifier it seemed to have about 55% RH, possibly due to air still coming in through my garage which under the house and part of the basement. I also have two sump pump pits with water in them that are not yet covered to block evaporation. In years past, without a dehumidifier, the labels peeled off of my wine bottles. Now, in the winter, the RH in the basement is less than the main floor, both with no dehumidifier. There is no sign of any moisture on the walls or eflourescence coming out of the concrete.All said, it was a huge amount of work but I am pleased with the result.

Although this product is expensive, it seems to be working well: we had several days of heavy rain after I applied it, and the basement is completely dry. Nonetheless, when I spilled some water on basement floor, it dried up/soaked in in no time, suggesting that the Radonseal had penetrated deeply into the slab. It's supposed to be permanent, but it's too soon to tell just how permanent it really is.

So we cleaned the floor, sealed up cracks with epoxy or caulk and went to move onto his ealer in our poured concrete crawl space. We sprayed water, then did two applications of the product, 30 minutes apart with a sprayer and a brush. It was odorless.Interestingly enough after about an hour we went back downstairs and it smells like smoke to me now. I am not sure if this is the combination of minerals that were pushed out or if a previous home owner may have smoked and we are smelling that because we have never smelled any smoke in our home at all in the 20 years we have been here.You can tell the sealer worked and it caused white build up to kinda push out of the cement and the walls. We got a radon mitigation system already installed and we hope this will continue to bring down the levels as much as possible as we complete the basement.

This product yielded a very unexpected result on an indoor floor and the most solid answer I got from a week of correspondence with the manufacturer was "that's curious." It felt like I was being handled by different people as customer support often had conflicting opinions.The floor passed all inspections and the test spot was gorgeous. We spent days prepping. We followed every step of application and it's so ugly and mottled. See photo.The only way to not have little chalk outline looking things all through the house is to grind that part off by hand.

Does exactly as the description describes. I used this for the first time in 2006 in Long Island, NY, in our 1,200sqft basement, after being recommended the product from a friend who had used it 2 years previous. Their basement tested 40x over the recommended levels of radon!!! Not to mention, it flooded several times a year. Two weeks after application it tested well within safe levels at HALF the recommend level!!! Nor have they have any flooding in there since! Needless to say, I was sold, even though we had a brand new house, that tested within the safety range. We applied this to the basement for re-assurance.Super easy to apply. Looks like water, pours/sprays like water and is non-toxic. No bad smell and water clean-up. Doesn't get any easier than that!It's now 2012 and I have finished applying this to another house, the new basement beneath my 1875 miner's cabin. This area of Colorado is notorious for high radon emissions. Unfortunately, I don't have a 'before' reading because the cabin is not yet air tight, hence, I can't get an accurate reading. Once it is airtight in another month or so, I will take a reading and update this post. I'm 100% confident it will come up within the safe range even though my neighbors have had to install expensive, electric mitigation systems.Will keep you posted!

While the product itself seems good and easy to apply, the instructions estimate is way too low. I covered over 1000 square feet 2x with just 1.5 buckets. I had to spend $600 in shipping with UPS to return the unused product.