THIRDREALITYSmart Plug 4 Pack, 15A Smart Outlet with Timer Function, Zigbee Repeater, ETL Certified, Requires ZigBee Hub, No Power Meter

Manual states that they are good for up to 15 amps, 1500 watts. Looks like it is good for it. I am running 1200+ watts through one right now.I thought I had killed one. I was wrong. We seemed to be having another power problem that cause one unit to flake out. A power outage the other day that turned out to be a bad connection at my house electric company meter proved that the socket itself had not gone bad. It was just 'scrambled' / 'confused'.The manual for these tells how to perform a factor reset. I did. It still would not show up in my zigbee devices. It took a lot of fussing to work out it was stuck in bluetooth pairing mode. Eventually I worked out how to get it out of that mode and become visible again as a zigbee device. Major pain in the butt. But it is back online and works correctly.So, verdict? It does work. It is responsive to zigbee commands. It works fine with household portable heaters. I took my newly recovered socket and put it onto a heater that has a nasty bug: If the power goes off at the heater, when it comes back on it is running at full power, with no high temperature limit. So I put it on the socket, and set the socket to not turn on after a power loss. That takes care of the risk if we are out of the house when a power outage occurs (however brief). I also put it there so I can monitor power use. That is a great feature on these. I can remotely see how much power the heater is drawing, and turn it off if I need to. Even when I am off in the wild world of fast food restaurants, or some such.Worth buying? Yes, if you are me. For the two reasons I noted above. If I go pickup another thermometer unit, I can setup a script that watches room temperature and can turn it on or off as needed automatically. Exactly what these are built for.I still stand behind the comment below about not using them for things like motors (that do not specifically have a 'soft start' feature). Those can kill any electronic switch not built for the power draw spike.------ Old review.. take two grains of salt - I retract it.------It looks like I managed to kill one by plugging in a room heater into it.This plug works great with Home Assistance , using Zigbee2MQTT. I could see from the power usage sensor that the heater was drawing up to 1300 watts. It seems to work fine. They have been connected together for a day or two. I even wrote an automation to turn it on in my home office before I start work.Just a few hours ago, I turned it off. But it did not turn off. The manual power button works on it. So I followed the instructions on how to wipe it back to factor default and re-pair to my Zigbee network. Removed the device from Home Assistant (HA) and stepped through pairing again. There she is! Add it back into HA and it shows up as a Zigbee Smart Plug from ThirdReality.But.. during the paring process there is an 'interview' stage where HA works out if the device is reporting sensor data and its attributes. This never completes.I bought the four pack and have only used two. So I delete this plug from HA and paired up another one. It paired up quickly and completed the 'interview' instantly.So... yeah.. Maybe just a bad one. Maybe I fried it. I have put the newly paired plug back on the heater. We shall see if it holds up over the next week.Outside of that consideration, I haven't had these very long. Not long enough to give a real review. Just share something you should know.Last little nugget of knowledge: Electronic switches (smart or just a timer) do not do well with major load spikes like running electric motors. That is why they are frequently suggested as not the right solution for things like pond or well pumps. You just burn them out. They do make electronic switches built to survive that workload. I will guess this is not that kind of switch.Be that as it may, so far these are working fine on low power draw workloads (like my desktop PC)

Running 1500+W trhough these, space heater on one, air dryer/convection oven on another, and two plugged into computers as I was curious wrt wall power draw, which is where I get my 'eyeball' accuracy from...They stay connected to a hubitat elevation well enough to use as do their temp/humidity sensors which I used to rig up a trivial space heater on/off in the winter for a room... sonoff did not fare well at all and I gave up on that sonoiff after wasting some time faffing around with it, and always having that temp/humid sensor go offline permanently until kicked in the rear manually again...er, Im getting offtopic, but these plug meters also survived the catastrophic failure of an electric grill last summer, which happened while I was OOS of the grill... grill plug got a bit melty, smart plugs nada, it still works like a champ, no signs of any any overcurrent or anything of the sort unlike the grill, although presumably that was all internal to the grill but still the plug wasn't affected(so was it plug elec or grill elecs preserving, which I doubt since grill plug got a bit melty and Imma guessing smart plug cut power...)I have seen the smart plug rep close to 1700W(once when it was new) on the air fryer/convection oven thing, but normally on high power usage settings(fryer, high 'baking temps, generally high temps) its more around 1550W which jives...)[EDIT January 25, 2025]I had the smart plug that I had on my primary desktop fail last night while doing an update on OpenSUSE Tumbleweed after 20d. There were 3346 packages that needed to update.Packages ALL updated fine, and install started as usual.Unfortunately right as it got to c. 20 packages left to update the plug decided to flake out and started randomly turning off and on, leaving me with a broken update, which was not a problem, as it appears that the BTRFS snapshot is saving the day(re-running update right now minus the smartplug only 2800 packages yet to go(rust))I plugged that borked smart plug into an outlet earlier today and it is still exhibiting randomly turning off and on in short enough intervals to be noticeable...Plug was paired w/a hubitat elevation hub, providing power monitoring and simple on/off wireless plug control, nothing complex.Hubitat will be going away at some point this year when I rebuild my primary server and have home assistant running...I wish that the plugs were easier to open(haven't tried as they are obviously not offering easy access for good reasons, but I can help but wonder flakey fuse or some other component in the plug, but Ill mark it bad and toss it somewhere for now... maybe later break it open and see what the guts are like and check the components... manual switch seems to be fine clicking the button, doesn't seem to stick or anything and nothing rattling around inside, which is all I can do w/o cracking it open at this time..., and I do not really feel entirely q7ualified to crack it open and 'fix' it which I probably could simply because soldering skills and well depending upon mfg process and reasons[/EDIT].

I was excited about them, but ultimately unable to get them to work. Very disappointing.The problem was my mistake. After getting some help they're working great.

I tried to buy this about 5 different times. Each time the device's packaging would have the seal already broken (see picture) and there were big scratches on the plastic case of the outlet. Finally I got one with a broken seal but no scratches so I kept it.Really does carry the cETLus safety mark and seems to work well with my Home Assistant ZBT-1 USB Zigbee radio. I'm using it to monitor and control my basement dehumidifer. The outlet makes a reasonably quiet audible click when turning on/off but I don't mind.Home Assistant has a setting to configure the outlet to turn on, off, or resume last setting if it loses power. By default it will stay off when first plugged in or after a power outage.