Bartoline Boiled Linseed Oil. 5 Litres

Purchased some terracotta tiles for kitchen floor, and never having used them before I researched sealing etc. Initially I purchased one of the massively overpriced sealers that supposedly soak in and repel water/oil without affecting the colour of the tiles .... cost about £20 for half a litre from a DIY store. Well, let's just say I disagree with the hype, as far as I'm concerned it was a total waste of money. So to anyone in same situation I can 100% recommend this product instead. Using boiled linseed oil may be the old fashioned way, and it does darken the terracotta, but it seems to actually work, Dilute this 50/50 with white spirit, and let it soak into tiles a couple of times before starting any laying. A final wipe over with the 50/50 solution when grouted finishes the sealing. Coverage is brilliant, and I'd say it enhances the colour of the terracotta. Other treatments may well work on walls etc. but for floors that actually see traffic this is an excellent and very cost effective solution. As footnote : before paying silly money on wax finishes, I can recommend seeking out the inexpensive Astonish floor polish first. Labelled as being for wood, it seems to work perfectly on sealed terracotta, and gives a nice subtle shine.

5 litres at a keen price. Sent quickly. I am using the linseed oil to seal a quarry-tile floor and outside steps and it works well.

I bought this to make trowel mastic even though it is recommended for wood. With dried sand it seems to function just fine. I've also used it on a wooden seat in our back garden and it seems to perform better than teak oil and a better price.

There's not much to say, it's Boiled Linseed Oil. It soaks in and dries fairly quickly and doesn't stink the place out. Brings out the colour and revitalizes older wood while adding a yellowish tint. I often pour some into a glass jar that I've made air tight with silicone and thin it down with white spirit, and leave a foam brush inside to apply it to smaller objects and then polish them with a home made block of canauba wax. Very little mess. The BLO is not technically food safe so I mainly use it on hammers, brooms, indoor handrails, and on occasion larger projects that I mainly keep out of the elements.With most Boiled Linseed Oil products the word 'boiled' often doesn't refer to the linseed oil being literally boiled as another reviewer has mentioned - nowadays it just contains additives to make it easier to apply (ie, solvents for thinning the originally thick oil), and to make it dry faster. BLO products typically don't contain lead oxide anymore like they did in the distant past either.I wouldn't really recommend it for outdoor use unless it's on something made from Teak or Cedar, or on an object in a location that remains undercover, or in combination with a wax coating. In our damp/wet UK weather you have to literally soak softwoods in oil for it to be of any use and even then they will still start to rot quickly. For those types of things you are better with something that creates a protective layer (ie, a good quality fence stainer, polyurethane varnish, yacht varnish, or as mentioned oil followed by a waxy coating that needs to be reapplied often, etc).As a final note rags or kitchen roll with BLO on them have the potential to spontaneously combust, so I typically lob them all in my chiminea and burn them after use! You could throw them in a wet bucket but once they dry out you are back to the original problem.

Used this to bring back to life full black slate paving slabs. Looked way better once treated

I painted my fence panels with this stuff for the 2nd time in 8 years. Works a treat really dsoaks into the wood & repels the water. I found heating the oil on the hob so it thins out a go's further.Top notch stuff.

It does the job quite nicely, but there are issues, mainly due to this not being boiled linseed oil.This is linseed oil with siccatives (oil drying agents).This may or may not be heat treated.Be aware, most things labelled "boiled linseed oil' are not genuine, this is one of them.If you are unsure read the datasheet on their website.Fire hazard:cloths used with this (not pure boiled linseed oil) can spontaneously ignite due to increased drying times caused by siccatives.This does not happen with pure linseed oil.Toxicity:Siccatives are generally toxic since multiple are used, Bartoline does not say which ones.This is unsafe to burn or otherwise dispose of contaminated items.This is not food safe, so do not use for eating utensils, it can make you sick.Avoid skin contact, it causes irritation and dry skin.Do not dump on ground, especially near or in bodies of water.Traditionality:If you wish to use traditional wood preservatives, this is not the product for you.Genuine boiled linseed oil is rare, or you can buy raw linseed oil and boil it yourself.Dilute with turpentine (real pine/gum turpentine, not mineral turpentine), it will penetrate and dry better.Lid:The oil can run down the thread, dry, and cause the lid to become stuck.Wipe off spills, and try not to screw the lid on too tightly, just enough so that it is airtight.The lid is also not angled properly or too close to the handle, so you cannot get a good grip on the lid when turning it.

As described and prompt delivery