confusing table. is it saying that if the middle hole represents belt size 32, then that middle hole represents waist size 30?

I have a 32" waist and I bought size M. It fits me fine with holes available either side if your waist varies a little.

Can the buckle be swapped?

Hi, This buckle can't be swapped. This one is very similar and can be swapped https://www.amazon.co.uk/Corkor-Vegan-Leather-Reversible-Medium/dp/B07PNBTHRJ?ref_=ast_sto_dp&th=1&psc=1

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Corkor Vegan Cork Belt Men Faux Leather - Vegan Non-Leather Dress for Jeans Adjustable Belt – Brown Black - 1,18" Wide

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