4K@60Hz HDMI 2.0 Audio Extractor Converter,HDMI to SPDIF Optical 7.1/5.1CH,Stereo 3.5mm,Supports Scaler,CEC,Dolby Digital Audio De-embed,HDCP 2.2/2.3 Bypass,for PS5,Xbox

TLDR: It works great! No video or audio delays. EDID settings are a huge bonus.Full Story: I have been trying to solve a problem that was incredibly frustrating. I have an older Yamaha receiver. It supports HDMI 2.0, 4k60 HDR. But, when I hooked up my new 4k HDR TV to it to get content from my Roku Ultra - I had constant audio and video drop-outs and the occasional (daily) HDCP error. No worries, I followed the advice from everyone and replaced my HDMI cables with certified HDMI 2.1 cables and made sure they were shorter than 3 meters. Problem did not go away. However, when I connected the Roku Ultra directly to the TV and then used ARC to provide audio to the stereo, all of the drop-outs and HDCP errors went away. I was able to use the controls on the TV to adjust the audio delay and the audio and video are in sync.But, I miss being able to see the display from the receiver on-screen. Knowing the actual volume setting (i.e. -25db) is an important quality-of-life thing and other settings that only appear on screen were missed (like the different DSP settings I had set up for different content). I was willing to deal with that, but the biggest issue I have now is that the receiver takes almost 2 seconds to start to play DD audio when it comes through Arc. This is not a big deal when you just start a show and watch it through to the end, but it is a pain if you pause something and then rewind a few seconds because you want to hear what someone said. This was what made me look for another solution.At first, I wanted to try a splitter. I figured I could send the full 4k signal to the TV and send a separate (ideally 1080p) signal to the receiver. This would not solve the problem of the on-screen content, but it would solve the audio delay issues. I tried 3 splitters, but none of them worked 100% of the time. Too often the Roku ultra box would decide that the TV was only 1080p. Other splitters said they could handle HDR, but they could not because the colors were totally messed up.Then, I thought I would try this guy and send the audio signal through the optical port into the receiver and send the video to the TV. It would not solve the on-screen issue, but it should solve the audio processing delay issue.Now we get to the meat of the review: This guy solved my entire problem. I decided to try to connect him up between the Roku and the Yamaha, and then go from the Yamaha to the TV. So, the HDMI chain goes: ROKU -> Extractor -> Yamaha -> TV. Since the Roku box doesn't "see" the Yamaha, and the Yamaha doesn't "see" the Roku (they both just see the "unknown device" in between them) whatever interaction was causing the drop-outs and HDCP errors have stopped. I'm back to my original setup and have the on-screen display from the receiver as well as the audio being in sync with no delays in starting up. This guy is powered by the USB port on my Yamaha, so it is only on when necessary.As a major bonus, I was able to use the EDID DIP switches to tell the Roku Ultra that my TV only supported HDR10. I don't like the Dolby Vision processing options on my TV and so now the Roku doesn't try to switch to it every time the HDMI is reset, it just sticks to HDR10.After trying 3 different splitters (all returned), upgrading my cables (unnecessarily) and suffering with ARC processing delays, I am finally back to enjoying everything without any drawbacks or compromises. Couldn't be happier.

I have a nice but older Yamaha receiver. it has HDMI ports/switcher. However it is the older standard that only does 1080p. I just got a new 4k TV and now the Video portion on my receiver is of no use anymore. The audio still sounds fantastic. So I got a new 4k Switcher and this audio extractor. It works wonderfully. The 4k video now goes through it but the audio goes to my receiver. Getting the switcher and this unit was significantly less money than getting a new reciever. Would Highly recommend for older receivers and new 4k TV's.

I am using HDMI from my cable box to my TV and extractor (then to my sound bar) but when switching between them (TV to sound bar) the extractor cuts out and I have to unplug/replug the extractor to get it to come on again. Not very convenient. Otherwise the extractor seems to work ok.

This thing works with some caveats!PLEASE READ CAREFULLY!What I wanted to achieve:Get my Firestick to output 192Khz/24bit to my SMSL DAC optical input (or compatible Amp/ AV Receiver) using the Amazon Music App playing Ultra HD 192Khz/24 bit tracks . (Without this adapter it will only ouput what the TV optical is: 48Khz/16bit... From what I understand this is standard for every TV optical out).If you don't care about Amazon Music and ability to play songs at high bitrates just plug an optical cable from your TV to your amp or DAC and enjoy 48Khz/16 bit content (you won't need this adapter). If you want the high bitrate Ultra HD playback capability proceed.NOTE: You also will need a male to male HDMI 2.X cable of the appropriate length and a male to male toslink optical cable to complete this installation. (Sorry I know this should be obvious to most but I wanted to include this bit)WARNING:Do the following steps carefully or you could damage your speakers from spurious digital noise!! This is no joke.... You have been warned.1. Set the Firestick to PCM in Sound Settings then RESTART FIRESTICK. (BEWARE: If "BEST AVAILABLE" is selected it won't work and you could damage your speakers !!!)2. POWER EVERYTHING OFF including firestick, TV, DAC, AMP.. Everything.3. Use the included USB power cable to power this adapter from a USB port on your TV or a USB charger capable of 1 amp (most standard phone chargers should work if your TV doesn't have a USB port.4. Set the little dip switches on the back of the apapter as follows: ALL DIP SWITCHES OFF except SWITCH 3. Set this one ON.5. Plug the HDMI OUT of your Firestick into the INPUT HDMI port of this adapter.6. Plug the aforementioned HDMI cable into the HDMI OUT of the adapter to an available HDMI port on your TV.7. Plug your toslink optical cable into this adapters optical OUT and the other end into the optical INPUT of your DAC/AMP/Receiver.8. After carefully checking all connections power everything up!9. Once the Firestick completes boot up. Start the Amazon Music App. In the App settings enable Ultra HD (top right 'person' icon in the App). Pick a track or album in the App that is labeled "ULTRA HD". when the track starts click the ... Icon on the bottom right. Click the italics 'i' icon and "turn on streaming info" after you back out of this submenu to thetrack playing, it should should show your device capability in the bottom left. It should say:"Device Capability: 24bit/ 192Khz"Your done!! 👍Hope this saves some frustration and helps someone out there.. Enjoy

Let’s me record console and fixed PS5 issue i had with HDCP

It does not work when you’re out in the forest.

Only reason I bought this device is to stop all the HDCP cable errors I get on my 4K Samsung Smart television. It's a bit old and when I stream some 4K content to it I get the error message that I need a HDCP quality cable...blah blah blah. The only thing that works without this device is setting my t.v. to 1080P. I shouldn't have to do that on a 4K Smart television regardless of how old it is. So I received this device today and installed it, set it to strip out HDCP and voila! It works. No more HDCP cable errors. For the price I think this is the best HDCP bypass/stripper available.